Showing posts with label Seminole Canyon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Seminole Canyon. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 18, 2017

#50 - Tuesday, 18 April 2017 - Seminole Canyon S.P.H.S. - near Comstock, Texas

A fascinating aspect of this life on the road is the people. It will surprise few of my readers that I far prefer wildlife, but I am intrigued by my fellow travelers and their stories. I enjoy the brief and random encounters I have with people. The very transience of these interactions is part of their charm. “Where ya from?” is a common beginning, but there are plenty of conversation starters. A tall, heavily tattooed guy with a parrot on his shoulder or a couple of big cameras slung over one is something that people notice. Yesterday I sat with Jesse perched on me underneath the ramada that shades my picnic table and I saw a familiar expression approach. It was the female half of the husband and wife campground host team. I had spoke several times with man when I first visited Seminole Canyon State Park last week, but she and I had not met. I noticed her making the grounds on the park provided golf cart checking camping permits. She parked and walked up to me and asked about Jesse. “Is that your bird?” seemed like a rhetorical question, but many of us are awkward when strolling up to a stranger, and I’m a bit intimidating I imagine.

I had just finished setting up camp when Jesse’s visitor arrived, and afterward I sat at a table beside the public restrooms and showers, which is the most reliable location to attempt to acquire the park’s weak wifi signal. Verizon has no service here and it is my only tether to the outside world. A woman approached me to ask if she could share the table. She looked weary of the afternoon sun and said she needed a shady place to have lunch. I saw a bicyclist approaching and then noticed the orange flag of the child trailer being pulled behind the mountain bike. Then I realized that the blue trailer’s occupant was a golden retriever. You meet all sorts when you travel. And, as John Muir said, travel far enough and you meet yourself.

The bike’s rider and dog’s friend had the “business up front, party in the rear” look of a mullet, but it was the most outrageous mullet ever. From the front his hair looked short beneath his baseball cap, but in the back was a dreadlock ponytail that reached below his waist. He set his bike down to use the restroom and his golden pooch obediently sat in its trailer berth looking adorable. I later found that their tent was pitched two sites away from mine. Rasta ponytail wasn’t much of a friendly sort. I’ve rarely had someone come within fifty feet of me without a greeting, but he briefly stared at me as he lit a cigarette and then looked away.

I was tired from little sleep the last night at the RV Park in Del Rio so I mostly hung around the campsite watching birds and cleaning my Wheelhouse. The vacant site between me and Mr. Rasta Mullet was soon occupied by two Harley riders. I didn’t see this many tent campers last week, but it is pretty much a 50/50 mix now. Whereas many parks have water and electric hookups for RVs in designated loops, this park intersperses sites with electricity with those without, and all but the largest pull through sites for big motorhomes have tent pads. The two gentlemen on the hogs were sixtyish and set up two tents side by side on the pad. The older looking of the two had a Harley trike that towed a matching trailer. For motorcyclists they had a lot of gear.

That’s another intriguing aspect of this life on the road … the different ways people camp and the different rigs. You see half a million dollar motor coaches. You see hippie dudes pulling golden retrievers behind their bikes. In between are a myriad of campers and I enjoy checking out license plates to see who has traveled farther than me, and bumper stickers to see who or what my fellow travelers represent. The only other RV that was set up in this campground loop when I arrived midday yesterday was also from Illinois. The spare tire on the back of his rig is covered by the Chicago Blackhawks logo. I haven’t met the lone gentleman occupying the campsite yet, but I am dying to commiserate about the fact that after last night’s poor performance the Hawks are down three games to nil in the first playoff round. He’s a silver-bearded man who has a smaller Casita RV and has been reading beneath his ramada. His camper is as small as you can go and still have a nice privy and galley inside. Two other campsites were occupied by one couple and one lone woman who were traveling together. They had camper trailers that are basically small bedrooms on wheels with an airplane style toilet. They made their morning coffee outdoors on a propane stove and showered in the public area. Others have only a small bunk inside and the rear opens to an outdoor grill and dorm room refrigerator.

I am reminded of the scene in Fight Club (in my top 5 movies and from the book from my favorite author of transgressive fiction Chuck Palahniuk and adapted perfectly to film by my favorite director David Fincher) where Edward Norton uses the term “single serving friends” talking to the unknown man sitting beside him. Brad Pitt isn’t impressed with the clever comparison of the single serving packages of condiments and liquor bottles to the one time fleeting interactions strangers during travel.

I now return to writing this after a nice little break. As if he knew what I was blogging about, my neighboring Blackhawks fan came over to my picnic table. Mick saw me sitting outside and had noticed yesterday that I also have Illinois license plates. As he approached I asked where in Illinois he was from and he replied that he was just coming over to ask the same. We then both expressed our disgust with the Blackhawks’ dismal playoff performance. Like me, Mick was listening to last night’s game via the NHL app and WGN broadcast. By some miracle I had intermittent wifi reception and was able to listen to the game with interruption from my Wheelhouse. Mick had been walking to the restroom area to pick up signal to follow the disappointing game. He joined me at my picnic table for a cup of coffee and told me some stories from his almost two years on the road and gave me his card. This wasn’t the first time I realized that I’ve always carried business cards, but don’t have an up to date one. I’m going to change that ASAP.

Mick headed off to do some hiking and invited me to tag along, but I needed lunch and to take care of a few other things first. When we chatted it was overcast, but now the sun is out and the temperature is climbing. I’ll be hitting the trail before long…

Well, my power is now out. It may just be that my surge protector has tripped, but I’m not going outside in this downpour to check. I have A/C power in my truck and can sit in there and charge my laptop if need be. Even without electricity I still have my battery powered lights, USB chargers, water pump and backup water heater, and propane powered stove and refrigerator.

All the best, M

Saturday, April 15, 2017

#49 - Saturday, 15 April 2017 - Del Rio, Texas

I am now in an RV park in Del Rio, Texas. My plan is to spend the weekend on my laptop working on project commitments. Since it is "Easter" weekend, it seems like the perfect time to hole up somewhere and try to force myself to "work". This is a quiet place where the historic downtown area leads to a strange No Outlet road and ends in a former mobile home park that is now an underused RV campground. For the first time ever my Wheelhouse is hooked up to cable TV and I have over 100 channels. It's a good thing I am not a TV watcher as I'll be able to avoid the distraction, but it was wonderful to be able to watch some playoff hockey last night and tonight I intend to watch the free UFC Fight Night.

Yesterday morning before I broke camp at Seminole Canyon State Park & Historic Site (SCSPHS), I hiked the most challenging trail the park and historic site has to offer. It is posted as 7.5 miles, but with the connecting trails it is about 9. Seminole Canyon contains pictographs created by the Desert Archaic people who inhabited the land 8900-1300 years ago. You may only enter the canyon itself (descend) on a guided tour, which I intend to take when I return early next week. This hike takes you to pictographs at Fate Bell Shelter near the park headquarters and is about 2 hours long. The Canyon Rim Trail that I trekked–a four hour hike–leads you to the confluence of the canyon and the Rio Grande and here lies Panther Cave, which contains many more pictographs including the namesake nine foot long panther. It is only accessible by private boat tour and when I reached the spot from the opposite canyon rim I saw the pier and stairs that leads to the cave. I didn't have binoculars so I used my long lens (420 mm with teleconverter) to view just the end of the panther's tail, which is exposed at the cave entrance. I had expected to be able to see the whole damn thing! The thunderstorms and torrential flash-flood-warning-inducing rains that fell during my stay at SCSPHS made the rocky hike a bit treacherous and the gloomy skies continually threatened rain. Most of my four hour walk was misty and if I closed my eyes to the rugged southwest Texas landscape I would have thought I was in the Pacific Northwest. My rain jacket was left on the entire trek. I encountered eight white-tailed deer that effortlessly bounded up the steep, rocky terrain. I also spooked a canid? that at first glimpse I identified as a coyote in the split second I had just because of general size, color and movement. I didn't see face or tail and still am uncertain what it was. I later researched and discovered that coyotes aren't known from the park (at least according to its website's list of mammals) and that means it may have been a fox (the largest true fox is the red fox and this animal appeared considerably larger that the 30 pounds that canid reaches - perhaps more than twice) but I am unconvinced. A look at the website for nearby Big Bend National Park does list coyotes. I've seen plenty of red foxes and my phantom buff-colored darter was so much larger. I'm wondering if coyotes truly aren't known from there or if the Texas red wolf occurs here (I'm pretty sure it doesn't). The park website does not list the coyote among the animals of the park, and the campground host I spoke to said that canids are rarely seen in the area due to local sheep producers and other ranchers shooting all on sight. The website does list "foxes" among its resident mammal species. I didn't see the face or tail so I am left wondering, but I fairly certain it was a coyote and a rare occurrence in the park ... I am still trying to pinpoint which fox species inhabits Seminole Canyon. If it is only the smaller grey fox than it had to be a coyote. I'll never believe it was a mountain lion (they are roughly human sized and only a young female would be the right size), but I'll also never believe that it was a 30# red fox. The other possibility is bobcat, which is well-known in the park but except for a very large male it, like the fox, is smaller than what I saw. My stealth friend was gone so quickly I will always be left wondering.

Also found on the Canyon Rim Trail was a beautiful female jumping spider that is as of yet unidentified but may be Phiddipus cardinalis. I will release it back in the park upon Monday's return, but right now it is living in a jar beside me and will be photographed later today.


my 2017 so far ...

J A N U A R Y

1-11    Hoffman Estates, Illinois
12    Marietta, Georgia 
13    Cutler Bay, Florida
14-17    Homestead, Florida
18    Florida City, Florida
19    Macon, Georgia
20    Bowling Green, Kentucky
21-25    Hoffman Estates, Illinois 
27    Bowling Green, Kentucky
28    Macon, Georgia
29-31    Lake Park, Georgia

F E B R U A R Y

1-5    Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park, Florida
6    Bowling Green, Kentucky
7-8    Hoffman Estates, Illinios
9    Dubai, United Arab Emirates
10    Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
11-14    Kuching, Sarawak, Borneo (Malaysia)
15 -24    Langkawi, Malaysia
25    Dubai, United Arab Emirates
26-3/1    Hoffman Estates, Illinois

M A R C H

2   Chattanooga, Tennessee
3    Ocala, Florida
4-15    Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park, Florida
16-22    Everglades National Park, Florida
23-24    Okechobee, Florida
25-30    Kissimmee Prairie Preserve State Park, Florida
31    Holt City, Florida

A P R I L

1    Lake Charles, Louisiana
2-5    Sea Rim State Park, Sabine Pass, Texas
6-11    Lake Casa Blanca International State Park, Laredo, Texas
12-13    Seminole Canyon State Park, Comstock, Texas
14-16    Del Rio, Texas

upcoming•
17-21    Seminole Canyon State Park, Comstock, Texas 
22-28    Big Bend National Park, Texas
29->    Guadaloupe Mountains National Park, Texas

Thursday, April 13, 2017

#48 - Thursday, 13 April 2017 - near Comstock, Texas

I’ve woken to the most spectacular thunderstorm I’ve experienced since one violent and terrifying thunderstorm near Negombo, Sri Lanka in 2014. The thunderstorms and rain began back in Laredo a few days ago and, as I drove northwest along the Rio Grande through Eagle Pass and Del Rio yesterday, the skies were extremely overcast and rains were scattered. I drove 40 miles northwest of Del Rio toward Comstock and eventually pulled into Seminole Canyon State Park and Historic Site. The rains held off, but the skies were threatening. Seminole Canyon is beautiful and the desert is more picturesque than it had been to the southeast.

My plan for the morning was to take the most challenging hike here. It is 7.5 miles roundtrip and the trail leads along the Seminole Canyon rim past views of Presa Canyon to the confluence with the Rio Grande. You are prohibited from venturing into the canyon itself except on the guided tours that lead you to the pictographs at Fate Bell. Seminole Canyon contains vast collections of pictographs created by the Desert Archaic people, and the Canyon Rim Trail that I wished to trek this morning leads you to a view across the inlet river to a pictograph that includes a nine foot jaguar (Panther Cave). Torrential rains fall at dawn while I type this, so I am not sure when I’ll be able to get out today.

There is no cell signal here and just some poor wifi reception near the headquarters. If the rains continue I’ll drive down the road to where I get good LTE signal so I can post this and send some files I need to get to Petco for Northwest Zoological’s 2017 Catalog. A rain out day would allow me to work on the BTS Journal as well, but that is what I intended to do over the weekend while I am staying at an RV Park back in Del Rio. Del Rio is the seat of Val Verde County and the nearest town of significance. Comstock is a small old west town.

During my drive from Laredo through Del Rio to this park I saw many Crested Caracaras. In Florida I only saw these scavenging falcons at one particular spot in Kissimmee Prairie State Park, but in Texas they are abundant along the Rio Grande. I also saw many Pyrrhuloxia, Scissor-tailed Flycatchers and Mockingbirds. Images of all these birds may be found on my Instagram. I also saw my first Harris Hawks, which is one of my favorite raptors.

My last day in the Laredo area I returned to a site outside of town where my friend Dr. Brent Hendrixson had given me GPS coordinates for. It was a spot he had found both of the tarantula species of the region. I had scouted it out the day I arrived and returned two days later but didn’t have any luck. During my third visit I finally found my target species – Aphonopelma moderatum. Tarantula hobbyists call this spider the “Rio Grande Gold” and most including myself consider it the most attractive of American tarantulas. Again, see Instagram for my photos.

I had intended to visit a few other waypoints Brent had generous shared, and did stop at one picnic area in between the rains. I found a couple of nice burrows, but either nobody was home or my pouring water down the holes didn’t have the desired effect due to the rains. The weather made me push on, but I may return. I first visited this stretch between Laredo and Del Rio over 30 years ago with my friend Ralph Henning. We met up with Stanley Schultz, his wife Marguerite and a young Canadian friend of theirs. Schultz is well-known for his tarantula guide, a very overrated, bloated and mistakenly lauded book that is hugely popular and in its third edition. I remember being appalled at how he collected anything that moved in the desert and had an RV with coolers full of cups of invertebrates and reptiles. All were smuggled back into Canada. As the years passed, my opinion of him only worsened, but I did get a signed copy of his first edition which was a smaller book published by Sterling. Oo-rah.

The pouring rains keep coming – and my cell phone keeps stirring with emergency flash flood alerts – (funny how you can get those when you have no signal …) so we’ll see how my two days here pan out. It is looking like today will be a laptop day. My A/C power keeps going in and out too, but I have D/C power that runs my LED lights and backup water pump and such. I was only able to book last night and tonight (Thursday) because of the upcoming holiday weekend. The area and park are beautiful and I know there are nice snakes about. I will spend Friday through Sunday nights back in Del Rio at the RV Park, but I may very well book a few more nights here afterward. If the weather is mild I could stay at Amistad National Recreation Area in the Del Rio area for cheap in a primitive site without hook-ups, but if the temperatures are hot I will need electricity for air-conditioning. I can sweat on the trail, but I have my parrot with me and I don’t wish for her to be cooked. I have to head back this way regardless as I continue west and slightly south to get to the Big Bend region. I haven’t booked any campsites there yet so I remain completely flexible.

Texas has already been terrific. Lake Casa Blanca International State Park was a bit overpopulated and chaotic at times, but I saw Javelinas, deer, raccoons, osprey, caracaras, and wonderful bird species. Lizards were surprisingly scarce and most darted to cover before I identified them except for one racerunner whiptail that I still need to post an image of. I saw another whiptail near the restrooms here yesterday. The only snake I’ve seen in Texas so far was a dead-on-road (DOR) garter snake outside of Sea Rim State Park. However, I haven’t begun to road cruise after dark yet. This area has treasures like the grey-banded king snake so when the weather improves I will be looking.

Well, my power is now out. It may just be that my surge protector has tripped, but I’m not going outside in this downpour to check. I have A/C power in my truck and can sit in there and charge my laptop if need be. Even without electricity I still have my battery powered lights, USB chargers, water pump and backup water heater, and propane powered stove and refrigerator.

Cheers, M

Afterword: I'm posting this from the outskirts of Del Rio. I had to drive 30 miles before I had a weak cell signal and another 15 before I had 4G LTE. I needed to fill up my gas tank anyway and I've been sitting in this gas station parking lot taking care of all that I need to do on the cyber webs. The storms obviously don't dissuade the bass fishermen. I've seen at least 15 fancy bass boat rigs pull into this parking lot. They're obviously all fishing the Amisatad Reservoir above the Rio Grande. It's got me thinking of Border Patrol on the water, because it connects with the border river. Now that I am driving back toward Comstock and the state park I will have to pass through a border patrol checkpoint. I did so twice yesterday. First time dude asked if I was U.S. Citizen. I said yes and he waved. Second time (the checkpoint I am passing through again shortly) the dude asked if I was having a nice trip so far and quickly waved me through.